Electronic solutions to modifying glow engines of all sizes to gasoline
#3001

Has anyone thought or tried to modify the backplate of a nitro 2 stroke to mount a walbro? I was thinking you close off the front and mount the walbro on the back. I know some of the rear mounted walbros use reed valves. I think some others don’t. It’s just a thought.
#3002

My Feedback: (17)
Sorry I have been absent from the discussion. - My "system" does not notify well of thread updates and if i forget to come back and check I miss a lot of content. I see you fella's have been busy 
On the Saito 72 - Can you get reliable idle and top end settings with no bleed air flow. If not check the system for leakage - a tiny bit is acceptable (even preferred) as it keeps the bleed clear of fuel buildup. too much would make setup hard. Looking at the valve it might be a bit restrictive when open. The valve needs to flow the full unresticted flow of the feed line on most of my setups. I think I might also be one size bigger in feed line on the 90 I have running well. My cheat for this would be - if you have a good idle - unhook the valve and pinch the end of the line - advance the throttle to a bit less than half and see if you can adjust the pinch to make it run well at that setting - if the line is wide open and your still rich - more air is needed.
hope this makes sense.
Chris

On the Saito 72 - Can you get reliable idle and top end settings with no bleed air flow. If not check the system for leakage - a tiny bit is acceptable (even preferred) as it keeps the bleed clear of fuel buildup. too much would make setup hard. Looking at the valve it might be a bit restrictive when open. The valve needs to flow the full unresticted flow of the feed line on most of my setups. I think I might also be one size bigger in feed line on the 90 I have running well. My cheat for this would be - if you have a good idle - unhook the valve and pinch the end of the line - advance the throttle to a bit less than half and see if you can adjust the pinch to make it run well at that setting - if the line is wide open and your still rich - more air is needed.
hope this makes sense.
Chris
My valve orifice is quite fine as I thought it would give me a higher resolution through greater servo travel. In the end it only needs to be the same or greater than the surface area measurement of the tubing ID. I would have thought I had that covered easily.
Step by step. Check with a leak rate….and then open valve orifice some more if that doesn’t work.
I still don’t have a solinoid housing so that option is still in progress.
#3004
This affects scavenging pressure, which in turn will affect engine performance.
Possible, but a lot of metalworking, probably adding quite a bit of weight to the engine, making beam-mounting awkward, and less power,
I cannot think of a single upside. Not even the use of a Walbro, which as I have said more often, does not have a place below 15 cc.
#3005
That WILL work.
Minor detail, it will work a touch better, if you bend that tube going to "half height" in such a way that it ends up at half height, in the centreline of the bottle.
As is, there is a theoretical possibility that crud could get into the fuel tank, and it takes just a very tiny bit of crud to turn your fuel into black dirty stuff clogging the feltclunk eventually.
Minor detail, it will work a touch better, if you bend that tube going to "half height" in such a way that it ends up at half height, in the centreline of the bottle.
As is, there is a theoretical possibility that crud could get into the fuel tank, and it takes just a very tiny bit of crud to turn your fuel into black dirty stuff clogging the feltclunk eventually.
#3007
Please don't take it wrong, I am really NOT trying to be pedantic here, but...
You missed something:
It is not a big deal, and depending on intended use of the plane, you can get away with your solution, but for me it is simpler to use only one single principle regardless of flight envelope.
I typically use a 10 or 15 ml Syringe... Pull out the plunger and discard.
The nozzle is capped off and serves as drain, and in the top, I plug the barrel off, and one short tube, for connecting muffler pressure, and a second tube that goes all the way to exactly halfway the barrel, in the centerline, serves as the connection to the fuel tank.
Regardless of hos you turn, roll, elevate or otherwise move the plane, the crap cannot pass through to the fuel tank until half the barrel is full.
During fuelling, simply uncap the drain nozzle, and the crap drains out, AND it prevents that gasoline from overfilling reaches the muffler. For methanol never a problem, just a bit messy, but for gasoline, you might see some spectacular flames upon starting the engine if there is fuel in the muffler.
The nozzle is capped off and serves as drain, and in the top, I plug the barrel off, and one short tube, for connecting muffler pressure, and a second tube that goes all the way to exactly halfway the barrel, in the centerline, serves as the connection to the fuel tank.
Regardless of hos you turn, roll, elevate or otherwise move the plane, the crap cannot pass through to the fuel tank until half the barrel is full.
During fuelling, simply uncap the drain nozzle, and the crap drains out, AND it prevents that gasoline from overfilling reaches the muffler. For methanol never a problem, just a bit messy, but for gasoline, you might see some spectacular flames upon starting the engine if there is fuel in the muffler.
#3009
I feel like of you're going to load a resin machine it makes sense to print a bunch rather than just one but I don't have a resin printer. How much work is loading resin and then emptying and cleaning it when you're done printing?
#3010

My Feedback: (17)
Well this was my first print ever so I figured I’d give just one a try. Adding resin was as simple as dumping a little in the tray. I haven’t tried to empty or clean anything yet so I really don’t know. I bought the machine to print solinoid housings as I didn’t have access to any other method at reasonable cost.







