Go Back  RCU Forums > Glow Engines, Gas Engines, Fuel & Mfg Support Forums > Engine Conversions
Electronic solutions to modifying glow engines of all sizes to gasoline >

Electronic solutions to modifying glow engines of all sizes to gasoline

Community
Search
Notices
Engine Conversions Discuss all aspects of engine conversions in this forum

Electronic solutions to modifying glow engines of all sizes to gasoline

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-07-2026 | 05:28 AM
  #3001  
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
From: Leesburg, VA
Default

Has anyone thought or tried to modify the backplate of a nitro 2 stroke to mount a walbro? I was thinking you close off the front and mount the walbro on the back. I know some of the rear mounted walbros use reed valves. I think some others don’t. It’s just a thought.
Old 04-07-2026 | 05:37 AM
  #3002  
xanaphyst's Avatar
My Feedback: (17)
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 466
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
From: Montgomery, TX
Default

Originally Posted by Cat 1
Sorry I have been absent from the discussion. - My "system" does not notify well of thread updates and if i forget to come back and check I miss a lot of content. I see you fella's have been busy

On the Saito 72 - Can you get reliable idle and top end settings with no bleed air flow. If not check the system for leakage - a tiny bit is acceptable (even preferred) as it keeps the bleed clear of fuel buildup. too much would make setup hard. Looking at the valve it might be a bit restrictive when open. The valve needs to flow the full unresticted flow of the feed line on most of my setups. I think I might also be one size bigger in feed line on the 90 I have running well. My cheat for this would be - if you have a good idle - unhook the valve and pinch the end of the line - advance the throttle to a bit less than half and see if you can adjust the pinch to make it run well at that setting - if the line is wide open and your still rich - more air is needed.

hope this makes sense.

Chris
Yes sir I can get a good idle and top end. It’s everything in the middle that’s giving me trouble. I like the suggestion of “valve leak rate” to keep the line clear of fuel vapors. I’ll give that a try.

My valve orifice is quite fine as I thought it would give me a higher resolution through greater servo travel. In the end it only needs to be the same or greater than the surface area measurement of the tubing ID. I would have thought I had that covered easily.


Step by step. Check with a leak rate….and then open valve orifice some more if that doesn’t work.

I still don’t have a solinoid housing so that option is still in progress.

Old 04-07-2026 | 05:57 AM
  #3003  
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
From: Leesburg, VA
Default




My crap trap. It’s air tight and yet easy to empty.
Old 04-07-2026 | 07:03 AM
  #3004  
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 1,646
Received 104 Likes on 96 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Bernett
Has anyone thought or tried to modify the backplate of a nitro 2 stroke to mount a walbro? I was thinking you close off the front and mount the walbro on the back. I know some of the rear mounted walbros use reed valves. I think some others don’t. It’s just a thought.
It COULD be a possibility, but it will near guaranteed affect pumping efficiency of the crankcase due to additional "dead volume".
This affects scavenging pressure, which in turn will affect engine performance.

Possible, but a lot of metalworking, probably adding quite a bit of weight to the engine, making beam-mounting awkward, and less power,

I cannot think of a single upside. Not even the use of a Walbro, which as I have said more often, does not have a place below 15 cc.
Old 04-07-2026 | 07:09 AM
  #3005  
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 1,646
Received 104 Likes on 96 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Bernett



My crap trap. It’s air tight and yet easy to empty.
That WILL work.
Minor detail, it will work a touch better, if you bend that tube going to "half height" in such a way that it ends up at half height, in the centreline of the bottle.

As is, there is a theoretical possibility that crud could get into the fuel tank, and it takes just a very tiny bit of crud to turn your fuel into black dirty stuff clogging the feltclunk eventually.
Old 04-07-2026 | 09:40 AM
  #3006  
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
From: Leesburg, VA
Default

I added a tube to half the depth of the container per your instructions on how to build one of these.
Old 04-07-2026 | 03:35 PM
  #3007  
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 1,646
Received 104 Likes on 96 Posts
Default

Please don't take it wrong, I am really NOT trying to be pedantic here, but...

Originally Posted by Bernett
I added a tube to half the depth of the container per your instructions on how to build one of these.
You missed something:

Originally Posted by 1967brutus
I typically use a 10 or 15 ml Syringe... Pull out the plunger and discard.
The nozzle is capped off and serves as drain, and in the top, I plug the barrel off, and one short tube, for connecting muffler pressure, and a second tube that goes all the way to exactly halfway the barrel, in the centerline, serves as the connection to the fuel tank.

Regardless of hos you turn, roll, elevate or otherwise move the plane, the crap cannot pass through to the fuel tank until half the barrel is full.
During fuelling, simply uncap the drain nozzle, and the crap drains out, AND it prevents that gasoline from overfilling reaches the muffler. For methanol never a problem, just a bit messy, but for gasoline, you might see some spectacular flames upon starting the engine if there is fuel in the muffler.
It is not a big deal, and depending on intended use of the plane, you can get away with your solution, but for me it is simpler to use only one single principle regardless of flight envelope.
Old Today | 05:25 PM
  #3008  
xanaphyst's Avatar
My Feedback: (17)
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 466
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
From: Montgomery, TX
Default

First 3d resin print of solinoid housing curing in the UV light machine. This is just a test fit while waiting for my fuel proof resin to arrive.





Old Today | 05:30 PM
  #3009  
Raleighcopter's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 339
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

I feel like of you're going to load a resin machine it makes sense to print a bunch rather than just one but I don't have a resin printer. How much work is loading resin and then emptying and cleaning it when you're done printing?
Old Today | 06:08 PM
  #3010  
xanaphyst's Avatar
My Feedback: (17)
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 466
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
From: Montgomery, TX
Default

Originally Posted by Raleighcopter
I feel like of you're going to load a resin machine it makes sense to print a bunch rather than just one but I don't have a resin printer. How much work is loading resin and then emptying and cleaning it when you're done printing?
Well this was my first print ever so I figured I’d give just one a try. Adding resin was as simple as dumping a little in the tray. I haven’t tried to empty or clean anything yet so I really don’t know. I bought the machine to print solinoid housings as I didn’t have access to any other method at reasonable cost.

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.