Hello
reading in the included manual for the UMS 150 it says to use 32:1 for break in and then 40:1 to run it.
also it says to use WD 40 to lube the cams.
Can anyone verify that is accurate since it’s translated from the Indian manufacturer?
thanks for the help.

I have had good success with my 125 at 40:1 rec fuel with Amsoil Dominator.. I use the Amsoil straight thru the #1 cylinders tappet guides before rolling it over pre start. Lubing the pushrod ends is less important than the cams, but I hit them also before first start of the day, again with straight Dominator, every run session
40:1 After break in is the standard for me. So far so good.
Keep it fun
Aaron

New to the UMS boat. Found a 'fair' deal on a UMS 5-100 to accompany the superb running Saito FG33R3 and the still not running fine NGH GF60i2. Gonna take my time on the setting up and running in. Already read through most of this rabbit hole and gonna form my own opinion :-). Will keep you posted on progress. The engine looks like a masterpiece, very beautiful! Planned bird for this engine is a Black Horse Corsair, should fit.

Welcome to the hole Sir. Keep us in the loop. Shared peer to peer knoledge based on experience was and is the reason I created this thread.
Glad your here.
Aaron- AKA Hyjinx

Are there any videos out there that show yearly maintenance on these radials? I have a UMS 260 and it is getting to that time of year where I need to go through it adjusting the valves, checking the oil etc. The few videos that I seen didn't really help and were not in english. The directions and a few things that I have read about adjusting the valves were very vauge.
Thank you
J

Hey Hunter. For what its worth. Session maintenance is what I key in on. For me valve adjustment is checked before starting as I lube the pushrod ends with the same Amsoil Dominator. Rarely do i need to adjust. But when need be, dont let to much verbiage trip you up. Valve adjustment across all ohv engines is pretty straight forward.
i'm an old timer who has wrenched on ice's for a lifetime. Within reason, clearance excessive or not is easily identifiable. Using a feeler gage to spec is always preferable, but if you understand the concepts of the valve train system, not 100% necessary. Understanding the cams design is important on some engines, but again not really a necessity as the clearance checked thru strokes other than compression can be affected, but as long as no rotations produce a excessively tight clearance it is not a critical issue. ( Mostly a Moki Brand cam design consideration)
I simply lube the cams by removing the lifters from #1 and putting three or four drops of Amsiol straight into the blocks and rolling it over to distribute before anything else at the field. (Which also checks for hydroloc. (THAT IS CRITICAL) Then lube the pushrod ends and go.
I also imbibe seafoam to the exposed valve stems on my UMS engines as the exhaust valves 1st start can tend to be "sticky" on my particular 125-5. I also add to the fuel mix. (Some here also experience this with the Moki Brand )
Sorry for the Epic. Hope your still awake and you got somerhing useful in it. Others will i' m sure offer thoughts on this subject, im not an expert by any stretch, but have had a lot of fun with ice's over many years. And hope you are loving them as much as I.
Thanks for sharing on this thread. That was my hope in starting it.
Happy Landings
Aaron- AKA Hyjinx

Hello
Is anyone familiar with the power fuel RX V2 fuel pump programming?
I understand you put it on the same switch for the ignition and share the ignition battery.
You mix the throttle channel master and pump channel slave.
where I don’t understand is the % from 0 to 100% full throttle , how do you set that up?
thanks for the help

Doomking - best to set up and run you pump on the bench before installing to become familiar. The settings will vari depending on your radio.
With 0% being off and 100% being full speed. The best running range will be approximately 30 to 70%.
Assuming you have the variable speed pump, you master/slave the throttle/pump just like a smoke pump. The pump does not draw a lot of amps. Even at a low setting the pump will supply more fuel than the engine can use.
Many set the pump just on/off and not a master/slave mix. It's your option.
I share my ignition battery with the fuel pump. Separate channels using the same switch to turn on/off. The common switch turns off the ignition and pump in event of dead stick.
If you don't have instruction manual, a search will find you one. And most important - never run the pump dry!!!!

Regards - J Tab

thank you for the response.
i will have to break the engine in and I’ll definitely play around with the pump.
I was also reading in the manual that you can prime and run the pump just by plumbing it to the tank in a loop, without the need to run the engine just to practice.

Thank you for this. I am really enjoying my 260. It just amazes me every time I start it. I just don't want to ruin it. I would really like to purchase another one this year but I don't have anything to put it in currently. I run redline but I haven't put seafoam in my mix. I have heard of this but I don't know how much to put in my mix. I have heard that seafoam keeps the carbon build up away. I run a 225 hp Yamaha HPDI on my bass boat and those 2 stroke guys say to use seafoam in their gas and I do too. I do notice a squeak coming from the engine. I have put oil on all of the valve stems and it doesn't go away. I have also put oil on the ends of the pushrods too. I have not adjusted the valves. I have also noticed a bit of grease coming out of the bottom of the pushrods too. Is that any concern? It makes a bit of a mess and is hard to clean.

They shunt back to the tank if plumbed like the set up in the diagram if thats what your referring to. When I have tested the volume of mine (just to know, and adjust voltages ) i run it out into a measuring cup.
I do concur on the importance not running it dry. Don't ask me how I know that lol.

i love em too Hunter. After complete break in , the valves seat and usually wont need regular adjustment but i always check with my pre run inspections. Mine puke a little of the lube out as goo from the lifter blocks that I lubed thru on #1. Wouldn't be concerned about a bit coming out if the rest of them if that is happening with yours. The redline viscosity may be in play there. If there is only a little "black goo" out the ring consider yourself fortunate. That issue is typical of everyone here. Mine is pretty heavy. Probably the Amsoil I use vrs your redline choice.
Hopefully and probably the squeak is nothing serious, just make sure the valve train isint tight somewhere. The seafoam solved a problem of sticky exhaust valves on my 125 and a identical 125 a guy flys at my field ( we both have them on Phoenix 60 Wacos). With normal maintenance and care, these things are like us. Eventually we wear out. But at least we can rebuild them.
Have fun.
Aaron-

thank you for the suggestion.
i am still loosing my mind trying to figure out how to program my Spektrum 10nx.
when you say “0 been off and 100% full speed” I would imagine that’s the pump speed.
How do I control that? Mixing it with the throttle channel?
I tried to mix throttle and aux 6, which is an open channel, but not sure what I am doing weather is right or wrong.
Short of putting fuel in the tank and play around on the bench I have no idea how to proceed and it’s getting frustrating.
I wish there was a step by step instruction I can follow to set up the radio.

Doomking - I am not familiar with the NX radio. One of the Spektrum forums should get you help on programming a mix.
You can use either a master slave mix or just connect to a channel and use full off or full on. -100% / +100%.

Regards - J Tab

Hi Doomking, does this provide any help: ?

I now fly a iX14, after a DX6i, DX8G2 and a iX12 but I am still unhandy with programming mixes. Most of the time I simply trial and error and watch the monitor on the Tx to see if what I'm trying is working...

Does anybody have any experience with the Smart iBEC from RC Light Systems? I ordered one to be combined with a Powersafe Rx and two batteries. Should give ample EMC protection without having to use a separate ignition battery.

Thank you.
watched the video already, I think I am making headway.
thanks for the help

Quick update.
got the pump running finally, and it’s easy to control the flow with the mixing.
One question that I have is, do I need to use the choke when I start my new UMS 150 since I will have the pump running once I move the throttle from idle?
I am thinking that if I start the engine like I normally do with my other gasser without a pump “ ignition on, choke on, full throttle, flip until it burps…opens choke lower throttle, start” when I advance the throttle with the pump running isn’t going to flood the carb thus not needing the choke on?
thanks

As far as I understand the inner workings of the carburator the filling of the membrane chamber stops when the needle closes the inlet. So the fact that there is a pump pushing fluid (gasoline) in does not make a difference. It only makes sure there is never a shortage of fuel, the chamber is always filled. So you would still need to use the choke. But correct me if I'm wrong.

The same goes for a gravity fed carburetor on a moped. Gravity is pushing on the fluid more or less (depending on how full your tank is), but you still need to use the choke.

I had the same thought about using a pump at 100% upon activating ignition power - would I need to choke? but found that with my UMS 115, when starting cold, still needed a good CHOKE to start.
Once warm, no choke required.

Excellent!
prop coming Thursday in the mail, looking at Friday for first start.
i am planning on using straight up synthetic amsoil, which I use to mix my gas, to lube the rockers and cams inlets.
perhaps chime in if you have any additional suggestions about the lube I should use here in the USA.
thanks for all the help.

Can't go wrong with Amsoil Dominator at 40/1 for the UMS. For start, choke to pop. Switch off Ing and pump. Rotate prop 2 times. Ing and pump on - go for it.
Keep check on temps. Heat cycle when breaking in. Don't run on bench for extended time. The lower cylinders will probably not fire when mix is too rich. Temps of lower cylinders will start to catch up as engine is run in.
Keep rpm low to mid for a couple of tanks. Enjoy the engine.

J Tab

Thanks Jake.
by the way some people use sea foam to keep valve clean, what’s your thought about it?

This weekend the UMS ran for the first time on the testbench. What a nice running engine, even in the new (not run-in) state it is in!! Try to follow the guideline from UMS as strict as possible running up the engine for short periods and letting it cool in between. Oiled the rockers and the lifters with some 75W90 gear oil applied with a syringe. Took a nr1 lifter out to pour a little bit of oil on the cam ring and found that the cam ring cavity was filled with grease from the factory. First litre of 1:32 premix went through, three to go and then it will be moving into the Corsair. Haven't touched the carburetor tune, did dial down the pump as much as possible. Woohoo, what a beauty!

What prop are you running?

For now I am running a 23x10 I had laying around. Next are 24x10 and 26x10. Start easy was my guess.