It's the same price as Klotz Modelube.

The 10cc needs to have a 20:1 mix. Don't use a lighter mix no matter what the oil manufacturer claims . Klotz gives me a small amount of dark deposits with the 10cc. You could try the Evolution oil as it is a clear blue tint and leaves light colored deposits.

The SPL is a total synthetic formula, very much unlike the other synthetics out there. Although it will not produce carbon, you may see an increase in carbon residue on your plane because this lubricant has the unique property of breaking up built up deposits and cleaning out the combustion chamber, ring lands and piston top.
Also remember that you will always have some residue since gasoline does not burn clean.
As Brian (flyinwalenda) points out, always use the mixture ratio that the engine manufacturer recommends.

I hope this helps

There are a large number of quality 2-stroke oils, just be sure to use an oil that is designed for air cooled engines (API TC or JASO FD ratings) , don't use an oil with a TC-W3 rating, those are for water cooled 2 strokes.

I have used many brands of 2 stroke oils that I would feel comfortable using in most anything, some of them include but are not limited to, in no particular order.

Lawn Boy (not synthetic)
Ace Hardware (synthetic blend)
Stihl HP ultra (full synthetic, currently using this)
Craftsman full synthetic
Bel Ray (something - full synthetic)
Amsoil Dominator (Full Synthetic)
Mobil1 2T (I used this for years but have not seen any in a few years)
Evolution Engines (blue 2-stroke oil)

Then there is all the no-name stuff I used because it was on sale at the small engine shop for $0.79 a bottle, I found it difficult to go wrong with most any modern 2-stroke oil as long as you stay within the engine manufacturers guidelines.

I just bought an evolution 10cc gas engine. The instructions say to NOT use Amsoil! I use it in all of my other engines. Any reason why Evolution would say that? And by the way, if you have a 10cc evolution what oil are you using?

I can't help you with the Amsoil question.

Personally, I'd use Castrol PowerRS 2Stroke (in some countries Castrol TTS).
I get superb results with it, and it is cheap if you know where to get it.

thanks. I'll try the castrol. Advance auto parts has it for $11 a quart. Pretty cheap!

You're guaranteed to like it. In bulk it should be approx 7 bucks per quart, and at that price, never mind the bulk purchase, your clubmates will take it from your hands like there's no tomorrow.
I typically buy in boxes of 12, but have never managed to finish more than 3 bottles from a box (and I mix 10:1...).

anyone interested in a like new evolution 10cc? I never mounted it. It won't fit my airplane!!! My loss your gain $220 shipped.

I have used "Triboron" from Sweden for a couple of years on my gas engines.
I have burned 60-70 liters on my different 1-2 cylnders.
Its alleged it is containing the element Boron.
It is mixed 1:100.
I have not have any problems so far.

I tried the stuff for a friend, and we ruined three engines in one afternoon... They lost all power and even changing back to a normal oil, the engines were fried...

Why did you not stop to use the oil after ruin the first engine?

Same reason I'm on my 3rd wife probably

They were that friends engines and he insisted on using that Triboron, because he was SURE it would work.
I was unfamiliar with it, had googled it beforehand, and what google showed appeared to look promising. The information appeared to not present any warning WRT changing over from normal oil to Triboron, no change-over procedure or anything.
Recommended mixing rate as best as I could figure out, was "half of what would normally be reccomended for oil content".
The engines were all glow engines, broken in on glow, modified to gasoline (by me) using my own standard mix of pump gas and Castrol, I knew they were running well.
Being extremely astmathic, the friend ran them on Alkylate fuel (Aspen) with original Aspen oil added to make 10:1 and all I can say is, Alkylate fuels are simply not really suitable, the tuning is hard to detect "by ear". Results were less than stellar, the engines were much easier to tune on pump gas.
Since way back when I started converting glow engines, and I had to figure out the mixing ratio all by myself and ended up with a very safe 10:1.
I mixed the Triboron at a ratio corresponding with "half of that", settled on 20:1.
They ran fairly crap on aspen with 20:1 Triboron, and it remained crap and deteriorating with pumpgas and 20:1 Triboron.
Friend wanted to try all three engines, because coming over to my place for him was a few hours drive, he is less mobile, and he did not want to waste the opportunity.

Dunno... the friend still is married to his first wife...

Strange that we has so different experience with the same product. I cant remember where and when i heared about Triboron, but I bought it on a trip to Sweden (I live near the Swedish border) on a gas station.
The label on bottle info tell me to use half percent of normal use, and I started there.Two (2) percent Triboron. I wanted to try it out and mix it down to 0,5 percent and used it on a Partner 50cc chainsaw I had converted to a engine for model aircraft. Under the testing the engine did not seized, but it was very dry with poor comp and I had to use a starter to get it running. After this test I started to use it with One (1) percent of oil on all my gas engines. They are DLE 55 and other I have made from scrap chainsaws engines of differen sizes. I have not converted any glow engines for the use. I did not do any cleaning befor change of oil in the gas. In the matter of Aspen I have to say that my carb. problems was over after change from pumpgas to Alkylate fuel. In Norway we has 10 % bioethanol in the gas. I wonder, are you the only one on the forum, aside me, who has used Triboron ?

The Partner 50 cc I tested with 0.5 % Triboron

We did basically the same: We ran our gonverted glow engines on 9% oil (10 parts fuel, 1 part oil for 11 parts total) and we mixed the Triboron as advised at half that, therefore 4,5%

Same story like you, the engines did not seize, and we did not see any signs of excessive wear, metal debris or anything, just loss of compression, bone dry inside, and no starting possible without using a starter.
Switching back to oil, it did not bring the compression back.

I have never heard of anyone using Triboron in model engines. It is apparently mainly used in mopeds, IF anyone uses it, but I have never ever met anyone that did.

As for the Aspen and other Alkylate fuels, I simply cannot get along with the stuff. Tuning is much harder because the "tell tale signs" are basically gone: the visual indication of smoke is not nearly as clearly visible, and the sound of lean or rich running also is much less distictive.